Italy!
I drove down to the town of Bergamo to watch Il Lombardia and to deliver one of the biggest illegal feeds of my career.
Back in September, prior to stage 19 at La Vuelta, I was hanging out by the Trek bus to get a couple autographs (well, mainly to get Alberto Contador's) and Pete Stetina walked out. I said something stupid like "Have a fun ride Pete!" and he came over to talk to me. Apparently there are not many US fans that go to random stages of Euro races (other than the Tour) so he was pretty excited to meet a fan from the US, and as it turns out, a fellow west coaster. He signed my hat and gave me a couple race numbers from the day prior. Super nice guy and a very talented climber who was instrumental in getting Alberto the results he got in La Vuelta this year.
He probably thought that was it - but of course it wasn't. I started stalking and planning a super-illegal-feed. I sent him a thank you note on social media and we started talking beer. I was so thankful for the souvenirs that I offered to bring some beer down to him at his next race. One thing Germany has in abundance is great beer. One thing the Trek Team bus does not have is great beer. So, I set a plan in motion.
I loaded up my hoopty with two cases of beer and headed south the day before the race. After a cozy night on the new air mattress in the back of the hoopty, I made it to the start area of the race. If you drive slow, have bikes on your roof, get there early, and have a rider list on the dash, you can drive the wrong way down a pedestrian-only street and park within 50 meters of the start line. Of course the Illegal Feed Zone parks illegally! Once the team bus arrived, I delivered the first case of beer. While I was going back to the car for case #2, the team all signed an old jersey for me! Gregory Rast then gave me a vest and they had a new hat for me! (since Pete and Alberto ruined mine at La Vuelta)
I was pretty stunned. I was squee-ing like a little kid and completely lost my cool - otherwise I would have got some pictures of the sweet 2 case hand-up into the team bus. But I have the memory. Thanks so much to Team Trek-Segafredo. You guys are awesome and I hope you enjoyed the beer!
Next up was riding the climb to Sormano and to try the Muro di Sormano. F that. It is steep. Crazy steep. Way too steep for my fat ass. After having to hop off the bike twice I said forget it and road back to the car and ate some lunch. Sometimes it pays to not be racing.
I set up the IFZ in Sormano and then sat down to enjoy a beautiful Italian afternoon. After watching the race in Sormano and providing some Illegal feeds (Jesus Hernandez took a coke and a looooong push - brother was way off the back behind the ambulance and everything else) I got back in the car and rode over to the Maradona del Ghisallo climb. Just like climbs back home, this one has a statue and a chapel dedicated to the patron saint of cycling. Oh, and it looks out over Lake Como. No big deal.
Top of the Ghisallo.
After that amazeballs day, I drove to Bormio to spend the night and get ready for two big days of riding. But, on the way, I had a pleasant surprise when the GPS (I just do whatever it tells me to over here) said "Take the next left and proceed onto the ferry." Needless to say that drove me to a pretty good momentary state of panic and confusion but I figured it out and drove the hoopty onto the ferry for a gorgeous ride across Lake Como that probably saved me hours of driving time.
Next day was a BIG one. Passo del Stelvio.
It was snowing when I got to the top of the pass. People were walking around with skis on their shoulders. My gameplan was to park at the top, ride down, drop some snacks off on the way down, then ride back up the pass. Plan was good, execution was difficult. It was really, really cold at the top. Like near freezing and snowing.
That is snow under my front tire.
The famous hairpins of the Stelvio. I didn't get back to these for 2 1/2 hours.
I bought a new hat and arm-warmers at the souvenir shop at the top. Pretty sure I got a great deal.
This corner was painted in with some famous Italian cyclists. I'd have mixed emotions if my name was there. Pantani died in a drug OD and Scarponi was killed by a car this year on a training ride. Saying a prayer at the Madonna del Ghisallo for Nibali and Aru.
OK. So this is what I saw after two hours of climbing back up. The pass is the low point in the ridge way, way, way up there. The number 24 is the is the hairpin number, counted from the top. Only 23 to go!
Here is the sign at the top, along with the gift shops and Europe's highest Sausage. I was as bonked as I've ever been. This ride crushed me. Especially as the snacks I stashed halfway down somehow disappeared - so I was super hungry and depleted of energy. I could smell the sausage stand from a couple KM away.
One of my favorite stories from Richard Scarry is the story of Ernst Goat. He is a swiss goat that climbs mountains and every day he has to climb a mountain to rescue Heidi Goat's cow that can go up the mountains but not down. My goal is to meet an Ernst and a Heidi. 50% done.
OK, Day 2. The Gavia
I didn't want to take pictures on the way up because I wanted to do at least one big climb without stopping. But I had to get this one. This is a road that goes underneath a chairlift. Awesome. I was planning on getting more pictures but I was freezing on the way down and just wanted to get down to the warmer air.
So, a bit of history. Andy Hampsten took the Pink Jersey of the Giro on this climb (except he came up the opposite side that I did) in an iconic snowstorm stage of the Giro. I climbed it on a gorgeous fall day. I was bundled up but ditched the jacket for the pic.
This pass sign is my favorite so far. There is a bench built into it! The Gavia from Bormio is (so far) my favorite climb. It has a lot of interesting features, chairlifts, a lake, and has a varied gradient so you can catch your breath every once in a while. And the top flattens out, so you can feel like you are flying on a high alpine pass.
Overall, it was another amazing trip for this bike nerd. These passes are massive and it is even more impressive to watch the pros go up them now that I've done a few. Turns out I'm a on the Statute system as my death zone is above 8,000 feet, not 8,000 meters.
I re-learned that people are people and even dudes at the top of their profession can be super down to earth and personable. Of course, showing up with two cases of beer usually helps break the ice...
Thanks for reading! Next trip will be Bourg d' Oisans and L Alpe D Huez (forecast for snow. GRR)
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